Knights, Nymphs, and Wine…. a little history

The Mouse that Roared…

So did you know that up until the mid 1800’s that there was the duchy of Savoy right smack dab in the middle of Western Europe?  Geographically confined by the road from Milan to Vienna and Grenoble to Turin, it encompassed parts of modern day France, Austria, Switzerland, and the Piedmonte in Italy.  Its symbol is now Switzerland’s symbol, the red even sided cross in a shield, and it held sway for nearly 800 years over the alps.  Several wars and a few treaties later, all that’s really left of the duchy is a small little a.o.c. at the base of the French alps who still proudly fly the Savoy colors.

I’m moving where?!

The A.O.C. is called Savoie, and it like many other little isolated regions has its own uniquely delicious wines.  This is where the knights and such come into the picture.  So picture a beautiful backdrop of snow covered peaks, alpine meadows, and lakes whose glassy calm reflects a towering castle overlooking it all…and one very sad 16 year old Maltese princess being sent away from the warmth of Cyprus to the cold hinterlands of the heathen Gauls to marry a king of Savoy . 

THANKS…..Over and Over Again!

In an attempt to ease her resettlement, the knight entrusted with her and her dowry’s safekeeping on her travels suggested she bring clippings of the grape vines outside her house to remind her of home.  Somewhere in the journey, she decided she would like the thank the knight in her own special way for the suggestion,(methinks often actually).  As the story goes, upon arrival the king realized that something lurid had occurred and gave the lusty couple a choice: Either retire to a dreary castle to protect the duchy from the evils of the alpine denizens or spend the better part of their life locked together in a very small cell in the dungeon. 

IT WAS GRAPE KNOWING YOU

They decided the former was a better idea, but they had to leave with only the clothes on their backs, which meant the dowry and the vine clippings stayed with the king.  Hence the varietal named Altesse, or the translation ‘your highness’.

ROUSETTE, JACQUERE AND CHIGNIN

Rousette, or ‘Altesse’ as the world knows it, is one of three white varietals that grow in the Alpine region of Savoie, the other two being Jacquere and Chignin.  Chignin is incredibly rare, and actually ends up being the Roussanne grape (of Southern France fame)  just with a mountain terroir expression but it is quite difficult to find.  Jacquere is the ingénue of the three varieties. 

 

JACQUERE

Jacquere makes incredibly delicate yet satisfying wines.  Dancing lightly on the palate, all flowers and fresh grass, and a touch of lemony minerals, Jacquere has been described by a very well known French importer as:

“… as fresh as wine gets, the wine version of bubbling, crystal clear spring water.  It is light in body, light in alcohol, alive and kicking on the palate, bone dry, and crisp at the finish.  It reminds me of green apple, granite cliffs, and alpine meadows inhabited by of-age nymphs.”

Why ‘of-age nymphs’ I’m not really sure, but how often do you get to drink saucy nymph wine?

ALTESSE

Altesse is like the sweet ingénue’s more ‘knowing’ sister.  Much more voluptuous and serious, with some rather pleasing surprises once she warms up just a bit.  Nutty, peachy, more like a slightly savory peach tart with a little cheddar cheese – this is the wine that they drink with rabbit, boar, and one of the finest cheeses of France, in my opinion  – tomme de savoie.

The wines of Savoie aren’t always easy to find, but Portland, OR retailers like Liner and Elsen, Great wine buys, Fred Meyer West Hollywood and Whole Foods are likely to have them (and if they don’t then they can get them for you pretty easily).  The other nice thing is that you’ll never have to spend more than $20.

SOME TO TRY

Domaine Labbe – Les Marches 2005 Abymes (jacquere) – $12ish – great with fondue

Pierre Boniface – Les Rocailles – 2006 Apremont (jacquere) – $13ish

Pierre Boniface  2006 Roussette de Savoie “Les Rocailles” – $13-17

Pierre Boniface NV Brut de Savoie – $18ish

RESOURCES

The retailers listed can also turn you on to some other cool stuff as well.

www.linerandelsen.com -  Bob Scherb (owner)

www.greatwinebuys.com  -  John Kennedy (owner)
Fred Meyer West Hollywood – Leslie Boom – wine steward
Whole Foods – both Downtown and the Bridgeport locations

http://www.cheese-france.com/cheese/tomme_savoie.htm